The Chicago Goat, or, Breaking the "Mule"

Malört, the quintessential Chicago spirit, "the taste so good, the Swedes abandoned it forever," is actually the only commercially "available" bäsk brännvin that I know of. Known as much for its intense and, to many, extremely disagreeable flavor, its odd marketing campaign that relishes in this fact, and the cult that has grown up around the marketing, I have a soft spot in my heart for Malört, introduced to it, as I was, at a Swedberg family Christmas party. Since then, I have fully embraced what's been known as the "Pyramid Scheme of Pain," getting others to try it, not so much because I think they will like it, but because I think they will not like it and have a bad reaction.

Fast forward a few years. My friend Brayton has gotten big into Moscow Mules, the concoction made from vodka, lime juice, and ginger beer. At our St. Patrick's Day party, we mix up some "Dublin Donkeys" in the same vein, although instead of with vodka, we use Irish whiskey. They are extraordinary. Similarly, for the Derby we make up some Louisville Mules with bourbon whiskey, and they, too, are wonderful.

So, methinks: how far can you ride on this train of logic? Can any spirit used in a "mule" produce a decent drink? So, the Chicago Goat was born.

The Chicago Goat

• Highball glass with ice,
• 1½ oz. Jeppson's Malört,
• Freshly squeezed juice of one lime,
• Top with ginger beer (I used Bundaberg),
• Stir until chilled,
• Lime wedge garnish.

It's fantastic.  The intense bitterness of the wormwood finally gets a chance to stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the sweet spicyness of ginger and a bit more lime than goes into most "mules."  In doing so, I think you get a chance to, perhaps, get past some of the impalatability and explore some of the interesting flavors of Malört, among them, grapefruit and maybe even a touch of rose.  

So, I suppose you really can make a "mule" with any spirit.  Or can you?